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Upscale Dining In A Surprising Spot
Tribune photo by SCOTT ISKOWITZ
Backwater's fare includes Butter-Blackened New York Strip, The Big Steamer, Fresh Grouper Sandwich, Bacon-Wrapped Blackened Scallops and Chef's Molten Chocolate Cake.
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Published: August 7, 2008
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CLEARWATER - The scene had all the elements of a beach restaurant. The scent of sunblock hung in the air. Many patrons, dressed in shorts and sandals, sported a reddish glow.
But the food didn't come in plastic baskets. The tables sported cloth napkins and glass water goblets.
Of course, Backwater's on Sand Key is not the only upscale restaurant on or near the beach. But it's still something of a rarity, and Backwater's food is on par with finer restaurants in the area, whether they are near the beach or not.
Backwater's offers dining on a boardwalk with a remarkable view of the Intracoastal Waterway and the mainland lights, including downtown Clearwater.
We started our meal with the Chef's Lobster-Seafood Bisque, a creamy smooth concoction of sheer bliss. It's listed as a customer favorite, with good reason. We could have left at that point and been happy with Backwater's.
Not quite on that level, but still tasty, were the Lobster Egg Rolls. The dish consists of two egg rolls cut on the vertical to create four egg roll boats filled with lobster and finely diced vegetables, served with a kicky jalapeno-mango sweet and sour sauce.
Also good off the starter menu was the fried calamari. The generous portion came in an oh-so-light breading, fried to perfection and served with a rich marinara.
Among many of the restaurant's pleasant attributes is that the menu, while featuring a number of sophisticated dishes, also includes sandwiches and burgers. We tried out the bacon double cheeseburger platter and learned once again that it is hard to deny the virtues of a half-pound monster burger. This one came cooked to order, with bacon, lettuce, tomato and onions and a side of steak fries actually worth eating.
Those wanting to sample the restaurant's seafood offerings should reach for the Fisherman's Platter, which is served either blackened or fried in beer batter. The shrimp, scallops and mahi-mahi tasted fresh and delicious. Especially good were the plump beer-battered shrimp, which retained their juiciness.
The steaks also passed muster. The western-cut sirloin came in a 10-ounce cut, smothered with a tangy gorgonzola cream sauce. The 14-ounce Chargrilled Black Angus Rib-eye came beautifully seasoned and meticulously seared.
But the most decadent entree is the Angus Surf and Turf Classic. The petite steak filet came wrapped in bacon - this was worth the price all by itself - and the lobster tail was broiled in a butter sauce.
How we managed to eat dessert remains a mystery. But we can recommend the Chef's Molten Chocolate Cake, a sinfully delicious dish that features a mound of warm chocolate cake with chocolate frosting and a plate decorated with chocolate syrup.
If you're at the beach, you owe it to yourself to check out Backwater's. Even if you're not at the beach, a trip there might give you that "vacation feeling" without actually having to take a vacation - with excellent food thrown into the deal, as well.
DINING REVIEW
Backwater's
BOTTOM LINE: Quality steak, seafood and raw bar in a beautiful waterfront setting
WHERE: 1261 Gulf Blvd., Clearwater
HOURS: 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday
CREDIT CARDS: All major
RESERVATIONS: Yes
CHILDREN'S MENU: Yes
ALCOHOL: Full bar
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
PRICE: $9 to $35
CALL: (727) 517-7383
Tribune reviewers eat anonymously. Mary Patrick can be reached at marypatrick@fridayextra.com.
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