Bungalow Needs Room To Improve
Tribune photo by JAY CONNER
The menu at The Bungalow includes Jerk Chicken Rigatoni, Surf and Turf Sliders and cheesecake.
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Published: October 16, 2008
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TAMPA - When a restaurant opens in a restored 1919 bungalow and it's simply called The Bungalow, it's probably not unreasonable to expect the whole operation to share that strong, unassuming sense of identity.
But on a pair of visits to the recently opened Floribbean eatery on the fringes of Hyde Park, we found a place unsure of itself - a work-in-progress that confounds almost as often as it delights, all while straddling two gastronomic worlds seemingly at odds with each other. The Bungalow is half upscale island-style bistro, half casual sports bar.
The good news is this: The kitchen hits more than it misses, which should give management plenty of time to iron out the wrinkles.
You certainly can't complain about the space. Refinished hardwood floors, brick accent walls and a mosaic tile hearth lend a vintage charm that's neatly offset by modern fixtures, crisp black linens and at least a dozen flat-screen TVs. A broad, rustic front porch offers plenty of space for al fresco dining when the weather is right. And a long, inviting bar seems almost impossibly well-suited for happy hour or late-night revelry.
The menu, which is sprinkled with tropical accent flavors such as mango chutney, yucca and Jamaican jerk spices, arguably tries too hard. Choosing from steak, chicken, pork, five seafood dishes, five meal-size salads, three pastas and 10 sandwiches means there's a little something for everyone, but it also makes it nearly impossible to figure out what The Bungalow's specialty might be.
A dozen mostly humble appetizers seem geared toward the bar crowd. We devoured the Bungalow Nachos, tri-colored chips topped with mojo-marinated pork, black beans and a tangy mango-jalapeno salsa. Other finger-licking options include fried calamari, Buffalo wings, fried gator bites and roasted crab-stuffed mushrooms.
Sandwich offerings are a good bet at lunch. There's a Cuban, club, jerk chicken and grouper, among others. If you can't decide, consider the Surf and Turf Sliders: hamburger, seared tuna, crab cake and grouper, each tucked inside a miniature kaiser roll. All four were well-cooked - especially the cilantro-flavored tuna - and dressed with lettuce, onion and tomato that gave them a fresh flavor. OK, so maybe the grouper fillet was the size of a stick of gum, but a mound of french fries helped fill out the meal.
The Bungalow Burger, served on a cornmeal-dusted kaiser roll, was good though not particularly special. And the grilled vegetable Cuban was a mild disappointment because while its zucchini and squash were cooked just right - still retaining a bit of firmness and crispness - the gorgonzola cheese was AWOL and the balsamic vinaigrette was either left off or applied so stingily that it made no impression.
Entrees were also a mixed bag. Our blackened mahi-mahi was perfectly cooked - crisp on the outside, moist and flaky on the inside - and paired well with the delicate flavor of fresh asparagus. But the Guinness beer-battered Fish & Chips were left a soggy mess by the watery island slaw sitting on a cabbage leaf on the plate. The jerk chicken, on the other hand - mildly spicy because it's marinated, not rubbed - was tender and delicious.
Service was friendly but hardly efficient. On one excessively long visit, the staff seemed entirely unprepared for a crowd, while on another it took three attempts before servers were able to deliver a drinkable glass of iced tea.
Quibbles aside, it can't be denied that The Bungalow holds promise. Let's just hope the economy affords it enough time to simmer.
DINING REVIEW
The Bungalow
BOTTOM LINE: Vaguely Floribbean-themed eatery set in a restored bungalow
WHERE: 2202 W. Kennedy Blvd., Tampa
HOURS: 11 a.m. to midnight Sunday through Wednesday, 11 a.m. to 3 a.m. Thursday through Saturday
CREDIT CARDS: AE/DISC/MC/V
RESERVATIONS: Not required
CHILDREN'S MENU: Yes
ALCOHOL: Full bar and wine list
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
PRICE: $5.95 to $16.95
CALL: (813) 253-3663
Tribune reviewers eat anonymously. Rommie Johnson can be reached at (813) 259-7426.
