For A Superb Meal, Say Yes To NoHo
Tribune photo by JASON BEHNKEN
The menu at NoHo Bistro includes a boneless pork chop served with apple-ginger marmalade and cheddar mashed potatoes.
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Published: October 23, 2008
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TAMPA - It's one thing for a dining critic to tell you how much he or she enjoyed a meal somewhere.
It's just one opinion, after all. That's why we often take other people with us to serve as a backstop -- an unbiased sounding board.
This particular trip was no exception. Four very opinionated, discriminating palates all reached the same conclusion: The NoHo Bistro delivered one of the best meals each of us had eaten. Ever. From preparation to presentation.
This quietly confident restaurant in Tampa's evolving North Howard-Armenia corridor has a handful of tables, hand-painted wall murals and a dinner menu to rival the city's most revered and recognized dining destinations.
After several years building its reputation with a well-regarded lunch, NoHo's owners have finally expanded to offer a four-day-a-week dinner service that truly must be tasted to be believed.
Each course offers both traditional and unique choices, from gorgeous, creative salads to entrees that marvel in both taste and simplicity. There really isn't much to criticize. The food is just that good.
Even the chef's treat, a starter plate of four crostini adorned with baked goat cheese, a hint of pepperoni and drizzled balsamic vinegar, could serve as a deserving appetizer itself.
We also tried the wild mushroom-Swiss dip, a thick, rich spread that didn't scrimp on either ingredient but lacked a distinct flavor to truly put it over the top.
We liked the mixed greens salad, a heaping pile of greens mixed with bacon, candied walnuts and a hearty Vermont cheddar dressing that added just the right kick but didn't overpower.
But the real winner in the salad department is the roasted red and yellow beet salad. It's gorgeously presented in a colorful column with each thick slab of beet held together by goat cheese and complemented with razor-thin pancetta, hazelnuts and a light hazelnut vinaigrette.
For entrees, we each picked something different and ended up passing our plates around until all were clean.
The half-pound Bison burger with homemade sweet potato chips was perfectly cooked medium-rare and delicious. Even better was the Bison skirt steak - thin strips of succulent beef in a cognac pan jus paired with mashed potatoes and two decadent baked blue cheese-stuffed mushrooms.
The boneless pork chop also drew raves. Prepared perfectly with just enough moistness to the meat, the chop was complemented by a tasty apple-ginger marmalade and cheddar mashed potatoes.
The sun-dried tomato and mozzarella polenta with scallops and sprinkled arugula was possibly the best dish we tried. The Italian favorite made from boiled cornmeal may look like gussied-up grits, but each bite brought a smile. The flavor was well-balanced, the cornmeal wasn't too soupy, and the small scallops added just the right texture.
Some items, such as the polenta, are available seasonally or are rotated on the menu with other similar dishes, such as a risotto with confetti vegetables and shrimp.
For dessert, we tried the lemon curd tartlet, which provided a nice sweet and zesty bookend to the chef's-treat crostini; and a plate of homemade mini-cookies.
The NoHo Bistro, with its affordable entrees and creative wine list, is the perfect place to entertain and impress out-of-town guests. The service is impeccable, with a friendly, knowledgeable staff.
DINING REVIEW
The NoHo Bistro
BOTTOM LINE: Upscale but friendly neighborhood bistro
WHERE: 1714 N. Armenia Ave., Tampa
HOURS: lunch: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Friday; dinner: 5 to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Friday; brunch: second Sunday of each month, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.
CREDIT CARDS: All major
RESERVATIONS: Recommended
CHILDREN'S MENU: Can accommodate
ALCOHOL: Beer and wine
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
PRICE: Dinner entrees range from $16 to $22; a three-course fixed menu is $26
CALL: (813) 514-0691
Tribune reviewers eat anonymously. John W. Allman can be reached at (813) 259-7915.
