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Vineyards Can Do Cheap and Expensive
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Published: September 26, 2008
Producers of inexpensive wines struggle to keep their prices down and their quality up. But even that struggle pales in comparison to the day they try to convince consumers that they can also make expensive reserve wines.
Stuck with the image of being a cheap winemaker, the Gallo brothers introduced some reserve wines nearly a decade ago just to prove to the wine world that they could make as good a wine as anyone. The wines were very good, but consumers just wouldn't fork over $50-plus for a bottle of Gallo - especially those accustomed to spending $10 for a jug of hearty burgundy. Gallo still sells a Gallo of Sonoma Estate red for nearly $100, but it never achieved the international acclaim that the brothers wanted.
So when Gary Sitton of Blackstone Winery wanted to show us his Sonoma reserve wines, we were skeptical. We associate this winery with weddings. But, my, what a nice surprise we were in for.
Why would any winery focused on wine values step up to reserve wines?
"The biggest trend in wine has been at the high end," he said while visiting us in Annapolis.
A former winemaker at Ravenswood, Gary has been Blackstone's winemaker only since April. He was brought aboard by Constellation - owners since 2001 - to build the Sonoma reserve program. His goal, he said, was to give Blackstone drinkers a more serious wine - something to "buy up to." If you like the inexpensive merlot, perhaps you would move up to a $15 to $20 Sonoma reserve.
He has achieved good complexity in these wines and we particularly liked the unadorned chardonnay. He says he is "passionate about place," meaning he wants the wine to reflect the terroir, and showcase the fruit - what winemaker doesn't? But he doesn't like leaving a little residual sugar, big alcohol or over-oaked chardonnays.
These wines are coming into the market this month:
Blackstone Sonoma Reserve Chardonnay 2006 ($16). Forward, tropical fruit notes with fresh acidity and a nice stream of citrus flavors and a touch of butterscotch and toasty vanilla.
Blackstone Sonoma Reserve Pinot Noir 2006 ($19). Perfumy cherry and red currant aromas with a soft mouthfeel, cranberry and clove notes.
Blackstone Sonoma Reserve Merlot 2006 ($16). A very luscious merlot with raspberry aromas and layers of cherry, mushroom, and tobacco flavors. Gary calls it "serious but approachable." Cabernet sauvignon, petite sirah, petite verdt and cabernet franc are part of the electic blend. We loved its breadth of flavors.
Blackstone Sonoma Reserve Rubric 2006 ($19). Gary says the object of Rubric is to make the best wine he can, no matter what grapes he has to use. Not afraid to blend non-traditional wines in his meritage, he adds a bit of tannat and syrah (as well as four other grape varieties) to the 59 percent cabernet sauvignon. What he gets is an inky wine with jammy black berries and cassis with nuances of coffee, vanilla and herbs. Fine tannins make it an easy wine to drink or cellar. Very yummy and at a reasonable price.
Wine Picks
Murphy-Goode Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 2005 ($20). Cherry, blackberry and cedar nose and flavors. Very mouthfilling, elegant and satisfying. Could easily be mistaken for a wine double the price.
Masciarelli Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2004 ($12). Nice dried cherry nose with leather elements. A beautiful food friendly melange of fruit and earth, that would go well with any meat or red sauced Italian dishes. A terrific buy!
Sbragia Chardonnay Napa Valley Gamble Ranch Vineyard 2005. A wonderful nose of honey, pineapple and other tropical fruits. A very pleasing experience in the mouth, with bright ripe tropical fruit flavors.
St. Francis Zinfandel Old Vines Sonoma County 2005 ($25). Intense very ripe blackberry and black raspberry nose. Blackberry flavors blend in the mouth with refined balanced oak notes. A great example of very good California zinfandel.
Girard Pritchard Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($80). This may be the last chance to enjoy this wine under the Girard label. It has complex blueberry and cassis flavors with a touch of chocolate and firm tannins.
Bettinelli Napa Valley Merlot 1999 ($20). Once belonging to Barclay & Brown, this Spring Mountain wine boasts of plum aromas, ripe cherry flavors with spice, cloves and long finish. If you are looking for an aged, ready-to-drink wine this is a steal.
Mia's Playground Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2006 ($22). This outstanding, reasonably priced pinot noir is named after the daughter of Don Sebastiani. Lots of bright cherry fruit and simple refreshing flavors. Sebastiani has created an electic but successful portfolio of fun wines aimed largely at a younger audience. Who else would be attracted to a wine called Plunger Head?
Tom Marquardt and Patrick Darr have been writing a wine column for 20 years and have traveled to the West Coast and Europe. They offer suggestions for today's dinner or for wine cellars.
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