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Dining review: Tun-Du-Ree means quick, tasty Indian food

Staff photo by ROMMIE JOHNSON

Worth biting into is Tun-Du-Ree's combination platter of samosas, served warm alongside a cool mint sauce for refreshing contrast.

By ROMMIE JOHNSON | The Tampa Tribune

Published: December 30, 2009

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TAMPA - Unless you're given to sarcasm — and who isn't, these days? — you've probably never walked into a fast food restaurant and said, "Wow, it smells fantastic in here."

At Tun-Du-Ree, we not only said so, we meant it.

Open the front door and the rich fragrance of curry awakens your senses, offering a promise that, while this austere eatery may not be long on fine-dining frills, it's not likely to skimp on flavor, either.

Amid those aromatic herbs and spices, you might also catch a faint whiff of ambition.

Among Tampa foodie finds, Tun-Du-Ree owner Saravana "Pat" Bhava's old "tandoori trailer" may not have achieved the near-legendary status of the Seminole Heights "taco bus," but his rise from humble beginnings is no less impressive. The operation moved into its new digs about a year ago when business outgrew the mobile kitchen Bhava parked in an empty Interbay lot.

The small, six-table space is cozy without feeling cramped or cluttered. It's kept tidy and vibrantly decorated with India's national colors of deep saffron and green. If nothing else, it's a huge upgrade for the air conditioning alone.

You place your order at the counter, choosing from a small but varied menu of basic, novice-friendly Indian staples, including meat and vegetable curries, tandoor-cooked chicken dishes and a selection of wraps served in soft, thick naan flatbread. On our visits, service was quick and polite, and employees were happy to describe dishes or recommend popular items.

In addition to the regular menu, Tun-Du-Ree usually offers daily specials. Options we considered included black pepper chicken, murg saag (a Punjabi chicken and spinach curry) and a vegetarian potato and pea sabji. All dishes are served on paper and Styrofoam with plastic utensils, and most can be prepared with varying degrees of spiciness (from "mild" to "crazy").

Don't try "crazy." Just trust us on this.

Of the handful of tandoori entrees, we liked the Chicken Biriyani, chunks of meat mixed with basmati rice and a blend of bold spices, all cooked together so the flavors mingle.

Another solid bet is the Chicken Korma, tender chicken cooked in a creamy curry sauce that's heavily scented with cardamom and topped with cashews.

Vegetarians have plenty of options here, including Spinach and Tofu curry, a Dhal curry made with steamed yellow lentils and a spicy Channa Masala with chickpeas cooked in curry sauce and served over basmati rice.

We had great luck with the Chicken Tikka Masala wrap, stuffed with hearty chunks of roast chicken cooked in a rich, lightly spiced tomato-based masala sauce. Make no mistake, it's messy — but if you don't mind finger-licking, it's well worth the effort.

With every dish we tried, we found portions to be generous, but heartier appetites shouldn't let that stop them from sampling Tun-Du-Ree's accompaniments. There are a variety of mostly wonderful breads, including delicious (although disappointingly dry on one visit) garlic and cilantro topped naan, aloo parantha stuffed with spiced potatoes and spicy lentil parantha served with pickles and yogurt.

Also worth biting into is a combination platter of samosas, baked pastries stuffed with either spinach and cheese or the more traditional filling of potatoes and peas. They're served warm alongside a cool mint sauce for refreshing contrast.

Don't skip the lassi — yogurt smoothies that pair brilliantly with spicy Indian food — which come in mango and banana-strawberry flavors. The cardamom-spiced Masala Chai Latte tea is perfect for post-meal sipping.

Tun-Du-Ree seems to have found a successful formula, with franchises planned for downtown Tampa, St. Petersburg, South Tampa and Westchase in the near future. While it may not compete with Tampa's best Indian cuisine, it's tough to beat when you factor in cost and convenience.