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TBO > Entertainment > Dining
Datz Right, This Deli Is A Dilly
Tribune photo by MICHAEL SPOONEYBARGER
The menu at Datz Delicatessen features 50-plus sandwiches, including the Run Silent Run beef sandwich.
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Published: February 26, 2009
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TAMPA - It's almost impossible to discuss the new Datz Deli without invoking the familiar old trope, "It's just crazy enough to work."
Crazy because an $11 club sandwich is a tough sell in this economy. Not to mention a $28 pound of Pecorino Toscano cheese, or a $70 pound of Iberico ham.
And yet, you can't visit Datz without getting the sense that owners Roger and Suzanne Perry know exactly what they're doing.
Obviously it doesn't hurt that the place is smack in the middle of affluent Palma Ceia, but what should really push Datz over the hump is the fact that it's unlike anything else in town. Calling Datz a "deli" is like calling Florida flat. It's true, but there's so much more to the story.
This 6,000-square-foot, two-story space is a culinary Swiss Army knife. It's a deli, a bakery, a coffee shop, a restaurant, a wine and beer bar and a gourmet market all rolled into one.
You can drop in for a rich, full-flavored cup of Kahwa coffee and use the free WiFi. You can stop and grab some handmade durum wheat pasta, cloth-wrapped vintage cheese, aged balsamic vinegar or one of 20 artisanal breads to take home for dinner. You can sit at the upstairs bar and quaff a deliciously hoppy Dogfish Head 90-Minute IPA or sample from an extensive wine list, which offers a varied selection in the $6-$8 range, plus a few high-end choices (for example, a $15 glass of Faust Cabernet).
Or, you can head upstairs and sit down to a full-service meal.
As an eatery, Datz is comfy and casual. Lunch and dinner hours share a menu of 50-plus inspired sandwiches, a variety of salads and a handful of sides.
The kitchen elevates the humble, hearty sandwich to new heights, piling thick-sliced epicurean meats on double-baked bread.
We nearly had to unhinge our jaws to bite into the Officer's Club -- a massive stack of oven-roasted turkey, honey ham, applewood smoked bacon, white cheddar, lettuce and tomato between thick slices of grilled whole wheat -- but it was worth the effort. The Walter's Gone Crab'in was equally satisfying, packing a meaty broiled lump crab cake between soft sourdough with arugula, tomato and a sweet Meyer lemon aioli.
We also couldn't resist ordering the Elvis Made Me Do It, a twist on the King's fried favorite with peanut butter and banana. Datz adds marshmallow cream to the mix, and -- after asking ourselves, "What would Elvis do?" -- we had them throw a little bacon on there, too. How can you possibly screw that up? Even served a bit cold, it was still a tasty mix.
The real standout, though, was the Roasty Toasty, a vegetarian-friendly baguette stuffed with grilled Portobello mushrooms, roasted red and yellow peppers, grilled asparagus and provolone cheese. It was bursting with natural flavors.
Among salads, we liked the East of Eden, a harmonious blend of spinach, arugula, avocado, mango, bacon, herbs and croutons drizzled with just the right amount of balsamic vinaigrette. We topped ours with a grilled chicken breast, which was moist and tender. We also liked Datz's take on a traditional Nicoise, though it was heavy on the field greens.
While portions are enormous -- and for the price, they should be -- it's hard not to recommend adding a side of mac and cheese flecked with smoky bacon pieces. Most sandwiches also come with chef Vivia Grier's addicting hand-cut potato chips, drizzled with bleu cheese.
Service on our visits was friendly but inconsistent. We'll chalk that up to opening-month jitters.
DINING REVIEW
Datz Delicatessen & Foodie's Market
BOTTOM LINE: Unique, high-end deli, bakery, eatery and bar
WHERE: 2616 S. MacDill Ave., Tampa
HOURS: 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday, 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday, closed Monday
CREDIT CARDS: AE/MC/V
RESERVATIONS: No
CHILDREN'S MENU: Yes
ALCOHOL: Beer and wine
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
PRICE: Sandwiches range from $6.95 to $14.95
CALL: (813) 831-7000
Tribune reviewers eat anonymously. Rommie Johnson can be reached at (813) 259-7426.
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