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Dining review: Ratchada offers best of 2 worlds

The restaurant serves both Thai favorites and fresh sushi.

Tribune photo by PENNY CARNATHAN

The Twin Dragon Roll at Ratchada features massive tempura prawns imported from Thailand, snow crab, mayonnaise, asparagus, avocado, roe and, of course, two giant dragons -- actually prawn heads -- locked in mortal combat.

By SHERRI ACKERMAN | The Tampa Tribune

Published: June 16, 2009

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ST. PETERSBURG - Our crawling toddler tore across the tile floor of the dimly lit Ratchada Thai Restaurant & Sushi Bar, scattering cautious servers in her wake, while the preschooler wailed to an audience of couples and families in cozy booths.

With my eyes closed, I could imagine hearing the coaster clanking up the steep track on its way to a terrifying plunge just like the movie, "Parenthood," when Steve Martin's character watches helplessly as his offspring wreaks havoc during a school play.

Yes, 8 p.m. clearly was too late to dine with little ones in tow, but Sunday evening options for families are limited in downtown St. Petersburg. After striking out at two other spots, Ratchada ended up being a hit.

The wait staff showed no fear — or frustration — in the face of mini-meltdowns and quickly served water in small plastic cups with straws that kept little hands busy for a few seconds.

Thai restaurants claiming to offer sushi always leave us a little suspicious, but the 5-year-old Ratchada deftly straddles the cultural divide from spring rolls and pad Thai to miso soup and what should be its namesake roll, the Twin Dragon.

For our first visit, we stayed in Thailand, choosing a chicken satay that was predictable, but tasty — important with the 3-and-under crowd; and delicious blanketed shrimp, marinated crustaceans snuggled with minced chicken in an egg wrap, lightly fried and paired with a pleasingly pungent red dipping sauce.

We divided the entree selections in the same manner, with a tried-and-true sweet-and-sour chicken that, thankfully, was not deep fried, but sauteed the way it should be in a zippy sauce tossed with pineapple, onion, bell pepper, tomato and cucumber.

The more adventurous frog legs were fried, but not greasy, slathered with a garlic sauce and served with baby corn, cucumbers and cabbage. Both dishes came with an ample serving of white rice, another crowd pleaser.

Fried ice cream buried within a gigantic cake and drizzled with chocolate and strawberry sauce rounded out this kid-friendly dinner. With a Thai tea, the bill came short of $50.

Our next visit, a weekday lunch sans children, found us in Japan and bellied up to a sushi bar with servers eager to make suggestions. Lunch specials start at $6.95 and, along with sushi orders, come with a cup of the day's soup — a spicy chicken tom yum flavored with fresh oregano and cilantro — and a crunchy spring roll.

We nibbled at the appetizers, but disciplined ourselves for the main event.

Some sushi restaurants put an individual stamp on their dishes, a twist that makes almost every dish distinctly their own. At Ratchada, that stamp is a satisfying creaminess often achieved with — surprise! — mayonnaise.

It gave our Key West spicy conch a texture akin to a creamy, homemade chicken salad.

We ordered a few old favorites, such as the eel drenched in sweet dark sauce, and ventured into familiar waters with the Neki Hama, a hand roll stuffed with chilled yellowtail and scallions, and Ratchada's namesake roll for $12.50: smoked salmon, eel, avocado, shrimp and snow crab.

We crowed about that roll until we tackled the Twin Dragon, our new favorite roll suggested by our helpful sushi guide.

"It has 10 pieces," he said. "It's very big."

What brings the dragon to life? Massive tempura prawns imported from Thailand, snow crab, mayonnaise, asparagus, avocado, roe and, of course, two giant dragons locked in mortal combat.

With gargantuan prawn heads adorning this $12.50 roll, it's a dramatic tableau — almost too impressive to eat, but you won't be able to resist.

Lunch for two cost less than $50. Service on both visits was professional and attentive, with a gracious staff willing and able to guide diners adventurous enough to try the specials or eat out with children.

Tribune reviewers eat anonymously. Penny Carnathan contributed to this review. Sherri Ackerman can be reached at (813) 259-7144.