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Cozy Bin 27 packed full of flavor

Tribune photo by JASON BEHNKEN

Bin 27's oysters are flash fried to lock in the bold fusion flavors the restaurant does so well.

By RICHARD MULLINS | The Tampa Tribune

Published: May 7, 2009

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TAMPA - If you like big, bold flavor in a compact package, we have good news for you.

The new Bin 27 Bistro, which opened in December, packs a big punch in a tight spot. It's in the former site of Cafe Con Trey on Kennedy Boulevard near downtown, although you may not recognize the place after its dramatic facelift.

The angular building looks two pegs more modern than most anything else nearby. Inside, a small, arched bar stands near the entrance for those wanting a refresher. The walls, ceilings and waiters' outfits are black. Sculptural lights dangle from the metal rafters. There's an air of romance, with dimmed lights, small tables and casual sophistication. You could do worse than picking Bin 27 for an aspiring date.

The menu is modern and varied. Owner Michael Wuliger includes Asian and Latin-inspired items, so expect to see lemongrass alongside Latin cumin and garlic.

And when you see the spices listed, believe it. Every dish we tried boasted powerful flavor. Bobby Flay might like this place.

Case in point: the soup. Yes, the soup. If a restaurant does well with something as oft-overlooked as soup, it's a sign of good things to come. We chose a lemongrass-chili butternut squash soup, which came with a drizzle of crème fraiche floating atop, combining for a rich, complex flavor with a spicy kick.

Among entrees, we tried the "pan crisped" wild striped bass. Many places pan sear their fish; Bin 27 chefs may have used an overheating nuclear reactor to cook with. But it worked - the fish came perfectly prepared, with a taut exterior that said, "Yup, we turned the grill up to 11." Side items included corona beans, chorizo, "chunky olive tapenade" and other nifty doodads - none of them too spicy to overwhelm the subtle fish flavor.

Speaking of pan searing, we also chose the seared peppercorn crusted filet mignon. The kitchen wasn't shy with the spices, rolling the steak in peppercorn before grilling so the exterior gets positively crusty. Again, it worked - there was the rich filet flavor, with a crunchy, spicy coating. A balsamic vinegar reduction along the sides provided a dab of extra flavor, as if we needed it.

That's the kind of punch Wuliger envisioned. Though formally trained in psychology, he's worked years in kitchens such as at Cafe Dufrain on Harbour Island. This is his first restaurant on his own.

Other enticing entrees include the Ropa Vieja, with sweet plantains and cilantro-lime crema, as well as the Guava Demi Braised Osso Bucco, actually a beef rib cut osso buco-style and sprinkled with citrus gremolata.

Desserts range from standard to inventive, and they seem to change frequently. Our visits featured a three-scoop dish of gelato (vanilla, mango and guava) and a quirky cream cheese-filled eggroll with sweet dipping sauces.

Open for lunch, the midday menu includes well-priced versions of the dinner entrees for less than $10 apiece, plus neat items such as a marinated skirt steak sandwich for $12 and Tamarind BBQ pork sandwich for $9.

Service was friendly and helpful. For instance, they didn't just make wine pairing suggestions - they offered huge samples to try.

Speaking of which, perhaps our only gripe is that the otherwise dependable wine list is a bit less extensive and more predictable than you'd likely expect from a place called Bin 27. Even so, Wuliger and Co. are off to a promising start.