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Dining review: Big taste keeps Romano's packed with regulars

Staff photo by JIM REED

Dolmades Stuffed Vine Leaves, top left, and a Combination Souvlaki and Gyro Platter from Romano's Greek & Italian Cuisine in Brandon.

By SHANNON BEHNKEN | The Tampa Tribune

Published: October 7, 2009

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BRANDON - Only locals seem to know it's there, but Romano's Greek & Italian Cuisine is worth finding.

MapQuest led us to a nondescript storefront off Brandon Boulevard that didn't look like a restaurant. We cautiously passed auto mechanics on smoke breaks and made our way through the back door and down a hallway that leads to the small dining room.

Our puzzling first impression was quickly replaced by the aromas of fresh bread and sauce. It was 2:30 on a Saturday afternoon, but all 12 tables were full of families, friends and laughter.

After a short wait, we settled into a quaint booth and studied the diverse menu. There are so many options, from classic Italian pastas such as spaghetti and baked ziti to Greek favorites including gyros and souvlaki. There are sandwiches, subs, even burgers.

The menu states that every item is made to order and made from scratch — and it sure tasted that way.

We went with the special: Tortellini Alfredo. The creamy sauce had a unique flavor and was drizzled with just the right amount of freshly-grated Parmesan cheese.

We also tried the stuffed shells filled with ricotta, mozzarella and Romano cheeses. This one was a bit disappointing, as we found it dry and thought it could use more sauce.

On another visit, on a weekday afternoon, we found the small restaurant just as popular as it had been on the weekend. Each time a table emptied, new customers claimed it, even before it had been cleared.

This time we chose the chicken Parmesan, which was excellent. The generous piece of chicken was drenched in a homemade marinara sauce and smothered in Swiss cheese. It was served with angel hair pasta.

Our meals came with salads, piled high with fresh veggies, and a basket of pita and garlic bread.

Our server told us more than once, "We don't do anything small here." She wasn't kidding. Fortunately, Romano's offers both lunch and dinner portions, and we found the lunch portions to be more than enough. (Our leftover chicken Parm tasted just as good the next day.)

We also tried the souvlaki chicken pita with a Greek salad. Both were huge and delicious.

Servers were attentive and helpful during both visits. While the restaurant's liquor license is pending, a complimentary glass of wine is served with dinner.

With such large portions, you may be tempted to skip dessert. Don't make that mistake. On both visits, we ordered dessert to go. The baklava was delicious, and the baklava cheesecake was amazing. What an interesting combination of flavors.

Romano's has been a Brandon staple since 1977, and we were impressed with the number of regulars. Some said they've been coming to Romano's all their lives.

One thing that keeps them coming back: the prices. Two people can eat really well for under $30.

MapQuest might be confusing, but we figured out that the best way to get to the restaurant is to go through the parking lot where Publix is located, off of Brandon Boulevard, west of Parsons Avenue.

If you find it once, you'll likely find your way back.