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Dining review: Cozy Real Dill deli is the real deal

Staff photo by CLIFF McBRIDE

Clockwise from bottom, the Real Dill Burger, Monte Crispo, Strawberry Apple Fields Salad and Turkey Avocado Flatbread from Real Dill Deli on West Shore Boulevard.

By RICHARD MULLINS | The Tampa Tribune

Published: October 21, 2009

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TAMPA - Maybe you've seen the dancing pickle.

He stands out on the corner of Kennedy and West Shore boulevards, grooving away like a maniac, frantically waving at cars and shaking a giant arrow pointing south to the Real Dill Deli.

The guy in that pickle suit is onto something. Follow that arrow and you find a very small but very good delicatessen that serves great — and great big — sandwiches and breakfast, too.

This spot proves you don't have to be big to be full of awesome. Items may seem familiar, but they're done better than you might expect with from-scratch ingredients such as smoked turkey and roast beef made onsite.

We tried a few of the signature dishes and found some deli bliss.

The club sandwich, for instance, which too many restaurants do poorly, makes a great lunch with its thick, hearty bread, smoked turkey and ridiculously thick, seasoned bacon. (Although we still don't understand why so many delis in Tampa only use two bread slices on clubs, and not three. Isn't there a law?)

The Monte Crispo sandwich was a terrific version of the French-American classic. It was piled high with sliced, grilled turkey breast, maple glazed ham and Swiss cheese on sweet, egg-battered, panko-crusted bread. It's drizzled with raspberry sauce, dusted with powdered sugar, and served with a side. Filling and delicious.

The Grilled Chicken Caesar Flatbread and Grilled Caprese Flatbread were satisfying as well. There are salads, too, including a Strawberry Apple Fields Salad piled high with fruit.

For a monster lunch, try the Real Dill Burger, a handmade Angus beef patty topped with smoked Gouda and thick bacon slices.

Each day, there's a special sandwich based on one loved in a major U.S. city. On one of our visits, it was the Pittsburgh, stuffed with capicola, provolone, French fries and Italian slaw made with oil, not mayo.

Only one small gripe here: The deli only has bottled or canned sodas. We wish they had fountain drinks with free refills, because free refills are in the Declaration of Independence, or at least they should be.

One thing the Real Dill does have that other delis lack is breakfast, starting at 7 a.m.

Our hands-down favorite was the Cinnamon Crisp French Toast. Each slice comes encrusted with a crispy batter, served with powdered sugar, butter and maple syrup. (We're madly trying to replicate the recipe at home.)

Please, don't skip the bacon. It comes in big, thick, seasoned slices and makes you stand up and proclaim, "This is how bacon should be!"

A Full Morning includes two eggs any style, choice of meat, toast, seasoned home fries, and a stack of pancakes or French toast. There's also a B.E.L.T, with three slices of bacon, one egg, lettuce, tomato and roasted garlic mayo on wheat toast.

"These are familiar items to many people, but we give it a very unique flavor," said owner Eric Cornwell, a former chef at the now tragically closed Lucky Dill Deli in downtown Tampa. "Maybe it was nuts of me to open a place in the worst economic downturn, but I've learned a lot over the years and it's going very well."

Once you become a Real Dill recruit — and we think you will — just don't expect to bring 15 of your friends. The restaurant has about 12 seats total inside, and two out front. So consider this more of a solo hideout or call-ahead takeout counter.

And by the way, the guy in the pickle costume is Tom White, and Cornwell said "he's completely in character out there — a laid back, awesome guy."