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Dining review: Try Luigi's for classic Italian, pleasing prices

Staff photo by ANDY JONES

Clockwise from top, Chicken Artichoke Bruschetta, White Linguine Clams and Mussels Montalcino at Luigi's Italian Restaurant.

By SHERRI ACKERMAN | The Tampa Tribune

Published: September 23, 2009

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TAMPA - Go ahead, linger over cannoli, tiramisu and New York cheesecake as you eyeball the menu at Luigi's Italian Restaurant.

It's nice to look.

Just keep in mind that by the time you slurp up mussels swimming in white wine lemon butter (sprinkled with fresh basil leaves plucked from the front patio container garden), followed by al dente penne tossed with a pinch of Italian bacon, chopped fresh tomatoes and basil and topped with a tangy marinara sauce with just a touch of cream — well, dessert won't be a viable option.

Maybe an espresso and a nice overstuffed couch.

South Tampa's newest Italian restaurant doesn't skimp on the ingredients or the portions. And comfort foods from the old country, like homemade cannelloni with a thick pomodoro sauce at only $11.99, come with a price that would meet mama's approval.

Open for a little more than two months, the Gandy Boulevard eatery is quickly giving Kojak's some competition for favorite neighborhood stop. Good thing Luigi's steers clear of barbecue and stays true to its classic Italian menu.

The antipasti features Fried Ravioli, Chicken Artichoke Bruschetta and the Mussels Montalcino that come with either marinara or the lemon butter sauce that we highly recommend.

But don't dismiss daily specials. On one visit, we tried the Mozzarella Al Forno, a fancy fried cheese served atop fresh mixed greens that made us understand the whole '80s cheese sticks phase.

Salads start small with the basic Mama's — mixed greens, tomatoes, cucumbers, baby carrots and balsamic vinaigrette for $4.99 — and move up to the Insalata Luigi's — spinach, pecans, grapes, croutons, Italian bacon and feta with a "mouth-watering" raspberry vinaigrette for $8.50.

We paused at the Greco Salad: mixed greens with olives, sun-dried tomatoes, carrots, eggs and grilled chicken topped with Italian dressing and gorgonzola. But, no, this salad has nothing to do with former two-time Tampa Mayor Dick Greco, Luigi's general manager James Wang assured us. But other customers have inquired.

With our eye on the prize — pasta — we settled on two entrees that turned out to be among Luigi's notables: Penne Alla Vodka with grilled chicken and prosciutto in a creamy tomato sauce topped with melted mozzarella, and the Penne Rosa Maria.

This was lunch, with both entrees less than $10, but we still had to ask for to-go boxes.

For dinner on a recent Sunday evening, a tough night for any restaurant, we found Luigi's bustling with seven tables filled with families, couples and regulars — and it wasn't even 7.

We sampled the Cannelloni and Eggplant Parmesan, which were good but paled in comparison with the Cheese Ravioli, the table favorite and among the priciest at $14.99. With cheese-filled ravioli, shrimp, mushrooms and spinach in the same delicious lemon butter white wine sauce as the mussels, it was worth it.

Dinner comes with homemade bread and a plate drizzled with oil and herbs for dipping. A children's menu features tried-and-true items such as ravioli and spaghetti. There's also pizza, which seemed to account for a flurry of take-out customers during our dinner.

Service is attentive but not pushy. When we asked our waiter how to pronounce the Cecchi Chianti, he obliged without a hint of superiority. Yes, they know their stuff at Luigi's, and they're happy to make you feel at home.