Email
Print
Review: Taco Bus chef has another hit in Taqueria Monterrey
Staff photo by DAVID KRAUT
The cuisine at Taqueria Monterrey Mexican Grill on Fletcher Avenue is best described as Mexican street food, made to order by hand. The food from Mexican chains cannot compare.
ADVERTISEMENT
Published: January 26, 2010
TAMPA - Sometimes a person achieves just the right mixture of talent and ambition. Rene Valenzuela is starting to look like one of those people.
The owner/chef of The Taco Bus, which has justifiably become a Tampa favorite, recently opened a new Taqueria Monterrey restaurant on Fletcher Avenue (the original is in Plant City). That's good news for those who crave authentic Mexican food — which is approximately everybody.
The modest but colorful restaurant is located in the corner of a small strip center, next door to a tattoo parlor. There are a dozen tables in the dining area and a counter in back. Go to the counter if you are picking up take-out; otherwise, have a seat and a waitress will be there quickly.
Igloo coolers line the back wall, filled with drinks such as Horchata, a delicious rice and milk concoction with an intense vanilla and cinnamon flavor (it was like drinking dessert). The Taqueria also serves house-brewed iced tea, hibiscus flower sweet tea and a variety of Mexican sodas.
The cuisine is best described as Mexican street food, made to order by hand. Just try a handmade tortilla and taste the difference. The food from Mexican chains cannot compare.
For starters, house-made fried corn tortillas and salsa are delivered to your table. And Taqueria Monterrey makes the best guacamole in town, simple and fresh, with chunks of ripe avocado and pico de gallo (onions, tomatoes and cilantro).
A salsa bar occupies the center of the dining area. Be sure to visit it to spice up your food. It features about 10 salsas and all the trimmings, from fresh cut limes, radish slices and creamy poblano sauce to a smoky salsa and pico de gallo. I enjoyed the Roja salsa, which has a smoky base. There is a mild green salsa and another one spicy enough to make your nose run, so test before you dress.
For the entrees, you have a choice of 12 meats served eight different ways (mini soft corn taco, soft corn taco, soft flour taco, burrito, quesadilla, sandwich, tostada or plate). They also are available plain, or dressed with cabbage and/or pico de gallo.
Part of the fun of Taqueria Monterrey is exploring various combinations. Here are a few I recommend:
The Alambre Burrito with cheese was my favorite. Imagine taking a shish-kabob of grilled beef, bell pepper, onion and bacon and wrapping it in a homemade flour tortilla with cheese. It was tender and packed full of flavor.
The Carne Asada Tostada features succulent bits of beef steak served on a flat, crispy fried corn tortilla with refried beans, a sprinkling of white cheese and pico de gallo. It's a nice combination of flavors and textures. The Carne Asada was also good as a taco. Served on a house-made soft corn tortilla, I ordered it loaded with cabbage and pico de gallo. A squeeze of lime from the salsa bar brightened the flavor to perfection.
The Asado de Puerco Con Nopales Torta is tender, shredded pork in a red chile sauce with cactus leaf served on a bun the size of a Nerf football. Not your typical $5 sandwich.
The Al Pastor (marinated pork) is Chinese-restaurant pink and goes great with grilled pineapple. The Pollo Asado (grilled chicken) has a flavor mild enough for meeker palates. Tucked in a quesadilla, it makes a nice meal for Mexican food novices or children.
The menu also features vegetarian options, including a bean and avocado burrito (a trip to the salsa bar cured its mildness) and the Vegan Rajas, grilled poblano pepper, mushrooms and onions in a quesadilla with cheese. There's also a house-made vegan sausage made with tofu crumbles.
It's a shame we couldn't wash it all down with an ice cold Modelo, Tecate or Carta Blanca, but with food this good that's a minor gripe.
Here's hoping Valenzuela's talent and ambition continue to live in the same harmonious balance as his ingredients.
DINING REVIEW
Taqueria Monterrey Mexican Grill
BOTTOM LINE: Fresh, authentic Mexican food at very affordable prices.
WHERE: 2320 E. Fletcher Ave., Tampa
HOURS: 11:30 a.m. to midnight daily
CREDIT CARDS: All major
RESERVATIONS: No
CHILDREN'S MENU: No
ALCOHOL: No
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
PRICE: Entrees range from $1.50 to $7.50
CALL: (813) 977-6808
Tribune reviewers eat anonymously. Mary Patrick can be reached at marypatrick@fridayextra.com.
TBO.com - Tampa Bay Online ©2010 Media General Communications Holdings, LLC. A Media General company. | Member Agreement | Privacy Statement | Work With Us
| * To: | |
| Your Name: | |
| Your Email Address: | |
| Personal Message [optional]: | |
